9/10 Tuesday
We
get a double-decker bus to Naples, about a three hour ride. The country is just
beautiful, more orchards, and mountains closer to the coast. We arrive at the
city center and find our way through the station to the subway. Our host has
arranged for someone to meet us at the subway stop in our neighborhood. There’s
nobody around the stop as we emerge with our bags and backpacks, except for a
couple guys standing on the corner talking to each other, who manage to figure
out that we are the party they are waiting for. So they greet us, and before
taking us to the apartment, one guy has Bob make a phone call to his phone to
make sure we are the right American couple with backpacks that we say we
are. Can’t be too careful, I guess.
The
streets are raucous with traffic, but our apartment is just a block away, down
a cobblestone side street to a private dead-end courtyard. We’re on the second
floor, overlooking a small grove of trees. The place is predominately bright
orange, with photos and decorations everywhere. It’s nice, in a busy,
Italianesque way.
Back
on the main street, we look for a café for dinner, trying to avoid any serious
shopping. Everything is picturesque to us, like we’ve been dropped into a
fifties foreign movie. The city has been making a major effort to clean up,
renovate and improve it’s gritty reputation. Some of the high apartments around
us are decorated with murals: modern, op-art, quirky and fun. As I’m taking
snapshots, I notice a couple of mechanics in a garage behind me joking over me.
They stand arms around each other, grinning and posing, “Hey, what about US!”
This neighborhood doesn’t see a lot of tourists. We have a little laugh together,
and ask them if there’s a pizzeria close. They wave in the direction up the
hill. We do find a place there, but we aren’t happy with it. A little more
exploration gets us to a market, and we figure we might as well get something
to take home. We get a little more good-natured taunting from the guys in the
deli, repeating our “OOKAAY, OOKAAY” and “YAH” as we point into the cases and
select our purchases. Bob practices a little Italian on our way back, and as we
pass our mechanic friends, he shows them our shopping bags and says “Por la
casa!”
1 Video Included
Bus Bari to Naples
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