7/13 Saturday
Marco comes over before we leave for
our day with a plastic jug of homemade wine. He sits with us on the patio and chats a
while, all of us talking a sort of pidgin English. He pours a second glass for
us, and we get a little alarmed, “No, no, one is enough!,” and he waves us off
saying “later, for fridge!” Okay, we get
it! He leaves, telling us to “Have nice day.”
We stay in town today, and walk past
the harbor to one of the big luxury hotels, the Amfora. The beach is actually
public, though. It has nice lounge chairs and umbrellas and services like the
hotel, but anyone can come in. They’re setting up a big sound stage at the
hotel, and we can hear a lot of hammering and banging over the piped-out music.
We learn that there’s a big electronic music festival tomorrow. This is very
popular in Croatia. There have been big fests in Pula
and Split and Zagreb recently, the tv was full of
commercials for them.
Bob gets caught up in the luxurious
atmosphere, with Kardashian clones populating the beach beds around us, and
orders a Long Island Iced Tea from the waiter. Woo hoo. It’s a disappointment,
though it was destined to be, at $10. Tastes just like a nice coca-cola.
We decide to go out for dinner after
our beach day, for something simple. Bob wants pasta, I’d like to try black
risotto, a regional specialty of risotto with cuttlefish ink. The first
restaurant we try on the plaza has a table under the canopies, but we want to
be in the open. The maître’d has the waiters move the table and chairs over
everyone’s heads out to the open air, “Here you are, sit please!” But he puts
it right next to their sidewalk sign, and flips on the spotlight. I can’t abide
it, we have to leave. So he’s all annoyed. We walk up through the narrow walls,
trying to find the corridor of restaurants we’ve seen before, but in this small
block, we’ve lost them all. It’s like we found a secret doorway and now it’s
gone. At last we find it, and go to an upstairs terrace restaurant that’s very
nice. Too nice. We see the menu full of pricey fish dishes, no pasta, no
risotto. Strike two, we leave again. We head back to the harbor, feeling our
plans for a simple dinner night reeling out of control. But we find the right
spot at a harbor side restaurant with everything exactly as we want.
1 Video Included
Hvar City Beack
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