July 9th, Hvar

7/9       Tuesday

            The town square and harbor are practically across the street. We pack our beach stuff and find a water taxi to take us for a 15 minute ride to Carpe Diem Beach, run by a local nightclub and notorious for all night parties. There are posters all around for celebrity DJs “starting at 1AM” But for us, the last water taxi leaves at 7pm.

The beach club is really nice, with giant palapa umbrellas and wooden sun platforms, surprisingly not expensive. We have a spot just next to a party of six, hosted by a guy from Dubai, who is showing off by badgering the waiters. “Where have you been? I need you to check on us every ten, no, fifteen minutes. You take care of us I will give you a big tip, you see? What is your name? Nicolas? Nicolas, take off your sunglasses, show me your eyes, You have very kind eyes Nicolas, I will give you a big tip if you take care of us.”  Nicolas goes off to get their fruit trays and ice buckets, while they all discuss the level of service “It’s not their fault, they are not trained…” Apparently the service in Dubai is better. He shows off further by ordering two bottles of champagne and more wine, about $300 per bottle. This is all very entertaining to us. It’s like an episode of Shahs of Sunset.

That evening, we have pizza in restaurant on the square. Groups of people are waiting for a table, but we two are seated quickly. Hvar is a beautiful city, with an ancient church on the square and the Spanish fortress on the hill. There are no cement apartment buildings or giant hotels to spoil the medieval look of the town, even the newer buildings are designed to fit in. In the night, everything has a warm glow of lanterns and moonlight.

After dinner, we walk around the harbor, and find a corridor of nightspots full of rowdy young people. The bars are small, but fun, one after another along the street. We have to stop in for a drink, check out the scene.

We’re all shoulder to shoulder, the music is awful top 40’s from the bottom of the list, but loud and bouncy. A tall young man talks with us, asking where we’re from. He’s from south of London. He asks me “Can I lift you up in the air?” “Huh?” “Can I lift you in the air?” To Bob, “Can I lift your wife in the air?” “Are you insane?” I ask. “No, really, you’ll love it, can I lift you?” Bob says, “No way, get outta here!”  To me, “He wants to grab your ass!” I hardly think he’d have any trouble doing that in this crowd. He stays close by, with a hopeful look on his face, “Please?!” “You are out of your mind.” He’s only interested in lifting ME in the air, he’s not asking any of the party girls surrounding him. We have to shun him, shut him down, he’s practically stalking me. I have no idea why this happens.

Then a guy comes through the crowd with a horse head mask on his face. It has a long rubber horse snout and a mane of fake hair, and everyone is petting his head and pouring drinks down his toothy rubber horse mouth.  He takes it off and asks Bob “Do you want to wear it!!??” Oh yes, please let me put on your rubber head full of sweat and drool, please!

We stay until 2 am, then head home. We do have a beach to go to tomorrow.

1 Video Included

Hvar