6/22 Saturday
We wake to a cool breeze and a trace
of clouds in the sky, much more pleasant than yesterday. We walk to the city to
visit the Museum of Architecture, another very modern building, right in city
center. Once again, we happen to come to a museum as the major exhibition is
being renovated, so we won’t see the Roman collection. There, however, are
Roman ruins all over the city, so we can see all that any time. The museum does
have a pleasant audio guide to their collection of Middle Stone Age and
Medieval artifacts, with a lot of information about the early civilizations in
the area. It’s also completely empty, except for us, so we take our time and
just enjoy the space.
The Church of St. Donat
is across the plaza as we exit, and since it’s cooler today, we can do the
tower climb. It’s not the most beautiful staircase we’ve seen, mostly concrete
steps, but the six huge bells hanging from ancient beams are very impressive.
We miss being chimed by the three o’clock bells by just a few minutes. The top
of the tower is a narrow walkway around the steeple peak, and we’re the only
ones to there enjoy the view. We spend some time looking out on all sides. As
we leave, more tourists start climbing up, and a whole group with small
children comes in just as we exit. Close call.
Our next stop is a restaurant/lounge
called The Garden, opened by some rock group members about ten years ago, and
very trendy. There are platforms with mattresses and pillows for lounging,
sheer drapery over pergolas, cushions everywhere, tres louche, one expects. It’s a very
picturesque harbor view, breezy, with shady trees and sage and lavender hedges
all around.
Now, we need to have a rowboat ride
across the harbor to the marina. The street sign says “Boat Men of Zadar”, with
a bench for waiting. It’s a tradition and good luck to make a wish as you’re
rowed across in the small open boat. The water is pretty choppy today, so we’ll
wish we get through the trip ok. Our man is on the opposite side, and as we
wait, a guy comes up to the steps at the water and strips to his underwear. He
stands there flexing and stretching, then jumps into the harbor water. He gets
out, flexes some more, then jumps in again. The rowboat man is approaching by
now, and he tells the guy he can’t swim there, he’s bothering his tourists, get
out before he calls the police. So the guy gets out and leaves. Did I mention
that practically the entire city is bordered by a swimming park?
The boat is only about 15 feet, and
the Boat Man is an old, heavy, craggy seaman. He helps us get in, then heads to
the other side. His massive paws maneuver the oars with a small, spare motion,
a lesson in efficiency. It only takes a few minutes, and costs less than a
dollar each. On the other side, there are about six new customers, and as they
are about to launch, a man with a big suitcase hurries in. I see one lady
giving her husband a look, like, this is our romantic harbor crossing with the
wishing? Gee, thanks.
On the marina side, we stroll by the
gigantic yachts, window shopping. Everyone is eager to get out sailing today,
with such a good wind, so the marina is bustling. It’s interesting to walk
through it. Then we’ve accomplished our tourist to-do list for the day, and
head home to make some calamari for dinner.
1 Video Included
Zadar Church Tower
No comments:
Post a Comment